Let’s start with a little bit more about me (do I get bragging rights because this is my blog?). It wasn’t until I was 13 years old that I even knew that diving was a thing, my parents got me my junior open water course for xmas that year… it all went downhill from there, smashing out dive courses, getting into freediving followed by spearfishing all the way up to today where I want to do nothing else with my life but be in the water.

I’ve travelled to the standard Aussie destination (Bali), Borneo and good ol’ Great Barrier Reef, I’ve dived pretty well all the local sites around Adelaide and seen pretty much everything you could think of seeing in Adelaide, I’ve freedived in Kilsby’s Sinkhole in Mt Gambier and swum through crystal clear Ewens Ponds, I’ve built and fixed numerous guns and have tried and tested a lot of gear to find what works best in certain conditions.

Me with a Leafy Seadragon

Rosie With a Leafy Seadragon

Let’s kick it off with a bit of story time.

‘The day I lost my Leafy Seadragon virginity’

Believe it or not I hadn’t seen one of these South Australian icons until very recently when I went for a dive with my manager and fellow diver Rosie. We stacked eight cylinders in the boot of her Honda CR-V and made our (slow) journey to Rapid Bay where we met our customers. Upon arrival we were greeted by glassy water and crystal clear vis, we geared up and trekked down the jetty.

On descent at the jetty we immediately found a leafy seadragon on a seagrass bed. It almost seemed too easy. For the next 40 minutes not a sign of a single leafy seadragon. Upon surfacing we had a snack and geared up for round two. We spent 98 minutes underwater, majority of which was spent intensely searching for leafies. 20 mins in… nada, 30 mins in…. nada, 40 mins in…nothing, one hour in… still jack, I was beginning to think the first one was a bit of a shooting star. The ocean gods must have heard my prayers because we finally stumbled upon a leafy seadragon, oh look, another! Oh wait, here’s another one, all of a sudden a dragonless dive became almost too crowded with Leafy Seadragons. What a way to experience my very first Leafy Seadragon.

Check out my Instagram for more pics: https://www.instagram.com/lukasz.ocean/

– Lukasz

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Whale diving. Ever wanted to be face to face with a majestic humpback?

The Dive Shack recently took a bunch of ocean lovers over to Tonga in the South Pacific to find out. In case you haven’t heard of Tonga, it’s a tiny bunch of Islands in the middle of the ocean, right next to the international date line. One of only two places in the world to go humpback whale diving.

Where in the world is Tonga?

Eleven days. Nine divers. More whales than we could count and a collective once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Putting this trip into words really will never do it justice. The good news is we’re going back next year, so you can come with us.

We land in Tonga, on the tiny island of Va’vau. This Island is so little it only has two international flights a week landing here, and the security scanner isn’t even plugged into the wall. The main street has more pigs than cars (really, sows and their piglets run around everywhere!) and the main reason people visit is because for four months of every year, humpback whales come here to mate, give birth and frolic in the warm, crystal-clear tropical waters.

A pig on the way to church, Tonga style

We check into our rooms right on the beach and start off with some gentle training to get everyone’s dive skills ready for our encounters with one of nature’s gentlest giants. Our dive skills are mixed in the group, with some of our group doing their beginner freediving course on the trip, whilst some members of our group are already advanced freedivers ready to get in some extra training. The water is a balmy 26 degrees and the visibility is a not too shabby 30+ metres. It feels great to be back in warm water after recently diving with cuttlefish in 13 degree waters!

A balmy forecast!

Our first day of whale diving encounters is spectacular.

We are fortunate to have Ash Lambert as our whale guide. He is nicknamed the “whale whisperer” and comes from the same Maori village in New Zealand as whale rider. He also worked as first mate with Mike Ball dive expeditions, so if anyone knows the ocean and whales, it’s this guy. Our skipper, Vili, is a village elder and all round legend. We have these two for the whole week, and we feel very fortunate to be in such experienced hands. Tongan Whale Expeditions really put in the work to keep us all happy. We find a juvenile – around 7m length, and it’s in a very friendly mood. We are sharing the whale diving experience with Ai Futaki – Japanese female champion freediver and underwater artist. We watch her play with this young whale, and it’s an incredible sight seeing her connect with this animal on a deep level. We eagerly wait our turn. When Ai gives us the nod and leaves the water, half our group slide in and our guide engages the young whale in play. We are only allowed four divers in the water at a time, so we rotate through, having the most incredible experience. This juvenile humpback is copying our behavior with a fantastic display of mimicry – we dive, it dives, we spin, it spins. Several of our group members are in tears as they fulfill a lifelong dream to be gliding through the water with this majestic animal. The rest of our group are wearing grins that will not come off all week. Pure freedom.

Juvenile Humpback ready to play

The rest of our trip is filled with amazing whale diving encounters, some spectacular diving checking out reef and sea caves, sunset cocktails, line training, lazing about on the beach, exploring on kayaks and socializing in the quirky little town. Towards the end of the trip, I have an experience I will never forget, and is hard to put into words. I’ll do my best.

It’s late in the afternoon and we get in the water with a mini heat run. A heat run is where a female who is ready to mate calls out and several males in the region come in to compete for mating privileges. Often several females in one area will be on heat at the same time and will attract a large number of males. The whales swim flat out, and the males will fight by banging against each other, breaching, tail slapping and singing. Earlier in the week we saw a small heat run with nine whales. Apparently they get up to fifty whales sometimes. On this day, we are following some young adults practicing with a mini heat run. There’s a female and two males, and they are swimming fast. Our boat pops us in, and we see them for about 15 seconds before they are gone again. They don’t even notice us. We take it in turns hopping in, swimming flat out, losing the whales, getting back on the boat. Repeat. After about six swims with this small group, our whale guide says this will be the last swim we have with them as they are heading pretty far out to sea, and fast.

I decide to keep up with them for as long as I can. We get in the water and start swimming. My days as a whale shark spotter on Ningaloo reef, along with my carbon fins mean I have a distinct advantage – so as the rest of the group starts to drop back I stay with the whales. I’m swimming my little heart out and as they start to get away from me, I do something slightly strange. I don’t know what makes me do it (perhaps it’s my training as a singer, or years of mimicking animal noises) but I start singing whale noises through my snorkel. I send vibrations and squeaks through the water and this is the weird bit – before I know it, the female whale does a u-turn and comes straight for me. The males are following just behind her. I can’t quite believe it and squeal out in excitement. As she is heading straight for me – I do the first thing I think of, and drop down underwater, trying to engage her in play. I duck dive and spread my arms wide, showing her my belly. She looks at me, and dives too, spreading her pectoral fins wide, seeming to say “hey, I see you. Let’s play.”

I swipe the water with my arm, and she swipes with her pectoral fin sending a stream of bubbles in front of me. The two males join in the fun and the rest of the group join us, having plenty of photo opportunities in what becomes the best swim of the whole trip. The whale and I blow bubbles together, spin, and spend what feels like an eternity communicating with our shared mammalian dive reflexes. We dive and frolic together, and for the next 45 minutes, my eyes don’t leave hers and we dance together underwater in the most incredible experience of my life to date. Towards the end, the three whales spy-hop and we look at each other below and above the water. Shortly after, they turn to leave and I wave goodbye with my heart in my throat. I’ll never forget this.

The rest of our trip goes without a hitch and we leave on the last day feeling that none of our group will ever be quite the same again. I feel honoured to be able to help so many people tick something as special as whale diving off the bucket list, and feel very grateful to have a job where I can do this. I can’t wait to come back again next year and see the whales and amazing people of Tonga.

Thanks Tongan Beach Resort and Tongan Dive Expeditions as well as Eirin and the crew at Dive Adventures for making this trip so incredible, and thanks to Beck, Tanya, Nina, Dave R, Dave B, Tristan, Danae and Michelle for sharing this incredible journey with me. I can’t wait for next year!

What the group had to say:

“Our trip with The Dive Shack to Tonga was truly a once-in-a-lifetime, bucket-list kind of experience. Not only did we get the most incredible whale diving, but I also gained a new skill with freediving, which I’m not sure I would have ever done without Rosie introducing me to it.” – Nina

 

“Everything was amazing! One of the best trips I have ever done through a dive company”. – Beck

 

“From caves to whales, the Tonga trip has been a truly memorable experience for me, I would happily do the trip again, and recommend it to others. Zero complaints and only good vibes!” – Danae

“Best thing I have ever done in the ocean.” – Tristan

 

“The Dive Shack team make you feel not just valued as a customer, but as a friend as well.” David B

 

“Well planned and organised overseas trip with a good balance of training, whale diving and social time, lead by a wonderful, fun host. – Michelle

“Swimming and diving with humpback whales was magic – couldn’t wipe the smile off my face! Thank you Dive Shack for an experience of a lifetime.” – Tanya

 

The people in the group were great and the whales were awesome. – David R

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I did something recently that I dearly wish I did ten years ago. I finally entered the world of dry suit diving and for the first time in my life, didn’t feel cold underwater in Adelaide winter. I didn’t feel cold on the boat. I didn’t feel cold in the water. I didn’t feel cold on my safety stop, and I didn’t even feel cold on the way back to shore as the wind whistled past our ears. Dry Suit Diving is definitely what I’ll be doing this winter!

Having a whale of a time diving on The Nauti Nomad in a Dry Suit.

Let me walk you through how it all happened.

Back in February, we took on a new staff member who happens to be a dry suit and technical dive instructor. I didn’t really want to let a male into the ranks at The Dive Shack, as we were proud of the fact we were the only all female run diving store in Adelaide. JD said he could sell Ice to Eskimos though, and looking at his very impressive credentials including 15 years diving and 7 years experience in the military, we decided it could be what our tiny family owned business needed.

Fast forward three months and JD has me trying on a dry suit for the first time in my life. It feels easier than I expected. I was always a diver who thought diving was about getting wet. Dry suit diving looked and sounded complicated, and I honestly didn’t really know where to start. However I also dreaded the cold mornings in winter, driving out to the dive site in the fog. Waiting patiently for a student to clear their mask all the while pretending I wasn’t cold. It was definitely what made me want to escape winter and dream of tropical locations. It was rare that I’d dive to the end of a tank without feeling cold from about March through to September. Even though I get a good 90 mins out of a standard tank, it was often very unpleasant for the last hour. And it was a real shame – some of Adelaide’s best diving happens in winter. We often get long periods with very little wind, improving the visibility and making the days out on the water beautiful despite the cold. So how did I suddenly change to loving winter diving?

“I was always a diver who thought diving was about getting wet.”

It’s 7am on a frosty winter morning. I wake up and put on my new thermal dry suit undergarments. I’m instantly warm and cozy. I add ugg boots, grab a flask of hot tea and head around the corner to my local jetty. The first advantage of a dry suit is immediately obvious when I don’t have to get undressed. I leave my cozy warm thermals on, and put the dry suit over the top. I put my gear on, and my instructor puts his suit straight over his jeans and jumper, much to the curiosity of the locals on their morning dog walks. We head into the water, and I immediately notice how weird it feels not getting wet. My legs feel slightly pressed by the water, but not unpleasantly. JD has me descend into shallow water and I start getting used to the change in buoyancy the dry suit diving creates. I turn somersaults, invert myself, cruise around upside down and practice adding and removing air. It’s nowhere near as challenging or difficult than I thought it would be, though it certainly feels very different. But the best thing is – I actually feel warm! After a few more skills and some more fun time to get used to everything, we get out and take our gear off. Now here comes the best part – I’m dry! JD takes his suit off, and is already in jeans and t-shirt ready to go about the rest of his day. I’m grinning from ear to ear.

We head over to the Nauti Nomad – The Dive Shack’s semi-rigid inflatable hull boat and gear up for a couple of ocean dives. I’m slightly nervous again but excited. On board, it’s great to feel warm and dry and again not have to change into a wetsuit. I zip my drysuit up, and I’m instantly toasty as we cruise out to the dive site.

My first dry suit dive feels a bit weird, but I soon get used to adding little bits of air to my suit to keep feeling comfortable as the air is compressed by the water pressure. I soon get into a rhythm with it, and add a little to my dry suit and my BCD every few metres through the descent. The dive feels a little weird, my buoyancy is slightly off, but I gain confidence as the dive progresses. We complete a 50 minute dive, and I don’t even feel a tiny bit cold. I feel warm!! I really can’t explain how incredible it feels to be warm in 15 degree water. We hop back on board, and I’m amused at the divers on the boat in their wetsuits who are all shivering. I know how they feel. I also know I’m now in the “dry suit club” and I’m never leaving. This is awesome.

This is definitely not me in a dry suit. This is Mark Bruce. But you can do this in a dry suit!

I enjoy my surface interval on the boat, and then we are back in for a second dive. This dive feels really good, I’ve got used to the feel of the suit, and everything starts to feel normal. We explore the shipwreck together, and have a blast swimming around looking at fish. It feels strange to be warm and dry – kind of cozy. Back on the boat after our second dive, is when the advantage really hits. Everyone else is freezing and can’t wait to get back to their cars to dry off and get warm. There are a few of us dry suit diving, and we are all comfortable, making jokes and enjoying being dry and warm.

The dry suit completely stops the wind on the boat ride back, and after putting my gear in the car, I throw some jeans over the top of my thermal undergarments, and head to the pub to debrief and chat with the other divers about the day. I’m really looking forward to my next winter dive!

And so it was with a little hesitation, a little excitement and plenty of hope that I finally, after ten years diving, and with JD’s encouragement, put on a dry suit and, with great relief, changed my diving habits forever.

By Rosie Sheba

Master Scuba Diver Trainer and Master Freediving Instructor. Manager at The Dive Shack.

Come in and see us or give us a call on (08) 8371 5822 if you want to get fitted for a dry suit and start making the most of winter diving too!

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Cuttlefish in Whyalla

When you think of diving holidays in Australia, one of your highest priorities should be Scuba diving, freediving or snorkeling with the Giant Australian Cuttlefish (Sepia apama), during their annual breeding congregation. Every year, these magnificent and bizarre creatures come to Whyalla from all over the southern coastline and put on one of the most impressive, wild and fascinating displays seen in nature.

Pt Lowly Lighthouse in the afternoon light

The Dive Shack dive club runs an annual cuttlefish trip from Adelaide to dive with these wonderful creatures, and this year proved to be a memorable weekend indeed.  When we arrived on Friday afternoon, there was a gale blowing, but we were relying on the forecast prediction of light winds for the Saturday to make diving possible. We stayed in the heritage listed Pt Lowly lighthouse keepers cottage, built in 1883. The wind made for a slightly spooky but very atmospheric evening. It set the scene for a glorious weekend full of laughter, cheer and cuttlefish.

Two rival male cuttlefish size each other up for battle

We woke up Saturday morning pleased to see the wind starting to die down. By midday the sea was flat as anything and perfect conditions for diving. We geared up in all of the neoprene we could find, and stepped into the water. It was great to have a combination of PADI Open Water Divers, Advanced Divers, Dive Masters, Instructors, and freedivers all experiencing the visuals together. The cuttlefish put on an incredible show for us.

 

 

Two cuttlefish locked in battle. The Ink cloud is evidence of the level of distress seen in the weaker male.

Living for only one year, cuttlefish have high stakes during the breeding season. Interactions can turn fierce as males compete for females, and visual contests can sometimes end in violent clashes. On several occasions we saw a male take a chunk out of a rival with his beak.

 

Cuttlefish put on displays of incredible rainbow colours during courtship

 

A cuttlefish camouflages with the background

The largest cuttlefish species in the world, adult Sepia apama can grow to over 1m in mantle length. Their skin is covered in tiny coloured cells called chromatophores. They can control their colour by contracting and expanding the membranes around these cells. Their control is so precise they can make waves and flashes appear to flow through their skin. They have special “w” shaped pupils high on their head to pick up all of the visuals. If a male sees a female he will show an attraction display to grab her attention. When a rival male comes near, he will flash aggression signals. If he has a male on one side and a female on the other he will split his colouration down the middle and show half and half! They can even change the texture of their skin, and will take on the exact camouflage of their background when trying to hide. They truly are the chameleons of the sea.

Getting the fire going after a cold dive

After our dive we all went back to our accommodation, had gloriously hot showers and set about building the campfire and cooking up a storm. Mulled wine, a BBQ and a multitude of salads and desserts made for a wonderful evening. Stories were told around the campfire, and we all went to bed tired but happy.

Sunset at the Point Lowly lighthouse cottages

 

The next morning I went out with two divers who’d come in the evening for a quick early dive before the wind picked up. The cuttlefish were very active in the morning and we got some great photos.

We’re all looking forward to next year when this year’s babies come back to breed!

 

 

 

Well deserved feast after some cold diving keeps a grin on every face!

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